Mull It Over – The History of Glühwein

Words: Crush

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As winter sets in, there’s no better time to sip on a glass of glühwein. Best enjoyed in the company of good friends and family by the fire, this ‘surprise spiced wine’ has become a favourite for many across the globe, even here in South Africa. Get the wine flowing and the pot going, as we mull over the history of glühwein.

During the medieval period, spiced wine continued to be a popular beverage. It was a staple at European feasts and banquets…

From Rome to Germany with Love

The roots of glühwein, also known as ‘mulled wine,’ can be traced back to the Roman Empire. Famed for their winemaking, the Romans often drank wine heated and spiced to improve its flavour, while preserving it and making it last longer.

The first record of mulled wine was found in one of Rome’s oldest cookbooks, Apicius’ De re coquinaria – except, back then, it was referred to as ‘conditum paradoxum,’ or if you don’t speak Latin, ‘surprise spiced wine.’ Traditionally made with wine, honey, and spices like pepper, bay leaves, saffron and dates, this unique drink became a beloved elixir – not only for its taste but its supposed health properties too. Early versions of spiced wine were believed to have medicinal properties, aiding digestion and warming the body.

As far as the wine varietals go, what’s available and preferred is often used… Typically, dry red wine is used, but some versions are made with Rosé and white wine.

Other historians claim that The Forme of Cury, a 14th-century collection of English medieval recipes, had a recipe for mulled wine. Cinnamon, ginger, galangal, cloves, long pepper, nutmeg, marjoram, cardamom and ‘grains of paradise’ (part of the ginger family and closely related to cardamom) were used to spice the ancient drink.

As the Roman Empire expanded across Europe, so did their culinary traditions, including their spiced wine. This spread laid the foundation for various regional interpretations of mulled wine that would later evolve into what we recognise today as ‘glühwein.’

The History of Glühwein

During the medieval period, spiced wine continued to be a popular beverage. It was a staple at European feasts and banquets, often consumed by nobility and the upper classes. Spices such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg were rare and expensive, symbolising wealth and sophistication among those who could afford them. The warming properties of the spices, combined with the alcohol, also made the drink appealing during the cold winter months.

One notable figure in the history of mulled wine is Swedish King, Gustav I Vasa, who in the 16th century, popularised ‘glödgad vin,’ meaning ‘glowing-hot wine’ – this later became ‘glühwein.’ His version included a combination of wine, sugar, honey and spices, heated to enhance the flavours; this set the base for the delicious drink we know and love today.

While glühwein is often enjoyed during colder seasons, it’s also a staple at festive holidays like Christmas. The festive tradition of drinking glühwein at Christmas markets began in Germany; the first recorded Christmas market dates back to 1298 in Vienna, and the tradition quickly spread to other German-speaking regions. These markets, known as ‘Christkindlmarkts’ or ‘weihnachtsmarkts’ – a mouthful to pronounce – allowed local merchants to sell goods and for communities to come together in celebration.

By the 17th century, glühwein had firmly established itself as a beloved drink at these markets. Vendors would set up stalls, offering steaming mugs of the spiced wine to cold marketgoers. The recipe typically included red wine, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, star anise and citrus fruits, with variations depending on regional preferences and available ingredients.

Glow On, Make It Your Own

The classic glühwein recipe remains cherished, but various regions across Europe have developed their unique takes on the drink. In Austria, for instance, a popular variation is ‘jagertee,’ which combines mulled wine with rum or brandy. In the Alsace region of France, ‘vin chaud’ is a preferred term, often made with white wine instead of red, and sometimes enriched with a splash of local fruit liqueur.

Teetotallers often enjoy a non-alcoholic version of this drink by substituting the wine with apple juice.

In Scandinavia, the drink known as ‘glögg’ includes additional ingredients like almonds, raisins and cardamom. Glögg is often served with gingerbread cookies or saffron buns, enhancing the festive experience. The Dutch and Belgian version, bisschopswijn, translates to ‘bishop’s wine’ and is traditionally consumed on St. Nicholas’ Eve, December 5th. Furthermore, in Poland, Vodka is often incorporated into this spirited drink.

As far as the wine varietals go, what’s available and preferred is often used, similar to the spiced variations in different corners of the world. Typically, dry red wine is used, but some versions are made with Rosé and white wine. Red wines like Merlot, Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Shiraz stand out as favoured varietals – often for their tasting notes, fruit-forward character, or perhaps lending a full-bodied mouthfeel. Teetotallers often enjoy a non-alcoholic version of this drink by substituting the wine with apple juice.

While the history of glühwein has evolved, the drink is more popular than ever – not just in Europe, but across the world. Its appeal lies in its ability to bring warmth and comfort during the coldest months, evoking a sense of nostalgia and communal joy.