Every sip of wine tells a story of heritage and community. Nomhle Zondani, founder of The Wine Shaq, brings these stories to life at Food Indaba 2024.

Raised in Langa, Cape Town, Zondani’s entrepreneurial spirit and thirst for knowledge have taken her from Europe to Africa. With her corporate background and extensive education, Zondani’s interest in wine led to the birth of The Wine Shaq. Her purpose? To promote and shine the proverbial spotlight on wines made by people of colour. We chat with the wine connoisseur and advocate about this year’s Food Indaba event, inclusivity in the wine industry, traditional isiXhosa brewing practices, and contemporary wines.

The theme for this year’s Food Indaba is Oikonomos, meaning ‘home management’. How does this relate to sustainability?

Food Indaba and, in particular, the theme Oikonomos, means the importance of sustainable management of food and its resources.

How does it feel to be part of this important platform?

Hosting an event at such a significant annual campaign fills me with a profound sense of honour and privilege. Having traversed this path, I am deeply grateful for the opportunity and feel immense pride to represent our heritage and culture in a meaningful way. I am truly humbled by the experience.

What are you most looking forward to on the programme?

I am looking forward to engaging in the insightful public discussion on the state of the food address, as well as the enriching experiences of Tea with the Farmers. And, of course, the culinary delights of the dinners promise to be a highlight not to be missed.

The dinner you and chef Cikizwa Galela have prepared is special. What are some themes explored in this diverse menu?

There are a number of themes explored in the menu, namely, cultural heritage, as the menu features traditional South African dishes like Vetkoek, iDombolo, Umleqwa and Umgqusho, showcasing the rich culinary heritage of South Africa.

The menu uses local ingredients and flavours, such as curried potatoes, hardbody chicken, roasted butternut and sorghum, to highlight the importance of local produce and traditional farming practices. It also refers to seasonal and sustainable eating, as the vegetables are seasonal and sustainably sourced, for instance, spinach, pumpkin and pumpkin seeds.

By pairing traditional food with modern wines, a bridging of old and new culinary trends is explored as well. Finally, the menu highlights community and sharing by enjoying dishes like beef stew and traditional desserts that are meant to be enjoyed in a communal setting, encouraging diners to share and connect over their meal.

My desired takeaway for diners is the appreciation of South African culinary heritage and a deeper understanding of the diverse culinary traditions we have, together with awareness of sustainable ingredients and, of course, the enjoyment of pairing local food with wine.

Alongside contemporary wines, traditional beverages will be featured on the menu. Can you explain their significance in isiXhosa culture?

The cultural significance of these traditional drinks is that they are more than just beverages; they are integral to the social and cultural fabric of isiXhosa heritage. They represent the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the isiXhosa people in utilising available natural resources to create nutritious and enjoyable drinks. Each drink has its place in various aspects of life, from daily consumption to significant cultural ceremonies. They underscore and embody the celebration of life and the essence of community and tradition in isiXhosa culture.

Umqombothi is a traditional African beer made from maize, maize malt, sorghum malt, and water. Known for its thick, frothy consistency and slightly sour taste. It symbolises unity and community in isiXhosa culture. Brewed for special occasions like weddings and funerals, this drink helps foster social bonds through communal brewing.

Amarhewu is a non-alcoholic fermented drink made from maize meal and sorghum, which is enjoyed cold. It has a refreshing taste and is valued for its nourishing properties, especially in hot weather or after work. Suitable for all ages, Amarhewu is used in ceremonies and gatherings, showcasing isiXhosa resourcefulness.

Amasi is fermented milk (similar to yoghurt) with a tangy flavour and creamy consistency, which is served chilled and is often enjoyed with staple foods like pap. It is an important part of the isiXhosa diet, rich in probiotics, protein and calcium. This symbol of hospitality is served to guests as a sign of respect and generosity.

Can you share more about the wine brands in your portfolio?

The wine brands showcased here are truly exceptional, embodying a blend of tradition and innovation from both seasoned and emerging winemakers. Their commitment to sustainable winemaking sets them apart, each offering a unique approach to crafting fine wines.

Originating from both South Africa and Zimbabwe, these brands not only celebrate diversity, but also highlight the remarkable contributions of female winemakers in a predominantly male-dominated industry. Among the standout brands is Aslina by Ntsiki Biyela, Praisy Dlamini, Her Wine Collection, Mahalia Kotjane of Three Quarters Wine, Mosi Wines, and Zoetendal Vineyards. Each bottle tells a story of passion, dedication and a commitment to excellence.

I don’t wish to give any more away, suffice to say guests will get to meet these remarkable winemakers, hear their stories and taste their wines.

Women have helped shape our food economy. As we approach Women’s Month, who are some women that inspire you?

My grandmother was undeniably a culinary matriarch; a self-made chef whose legacy continues to inspire me in the kitchen. Her timeless recipes have become cherished traditions that I still turn to today.

In the realm of food, figures like the esteemed sis Zola Nene have left an indelible mark on the culinary landscape. In the world of wine, luminaries such as Ntsiki Biyela of Aslina Wine, Nondumiso Pikashe of Sesfikile Wines, and Beverly Farmer of Women in Wine stand as shining examples of excellence and innovation. Their passion and expertise have not only enriched the industry, but have also paved the way for future generations of aspiring chefs and winemakers.

The Wine Shaq provides a much-needed platform for black winemakers. How has the wine industry evolved and what areas still need improvement?

In recent years, a heartening trend has emerged with an increasing number of young women and men from underprivileged backgrounds pursuing careers as sommeliers. While a promising few have begun to ascend the ranks, there remains a significant disparity in the representation of winemakers and viticulturists from diverse backgrounds. To bridge this gap, the industry must proactively provide bursaries and educational opportunities to aspiring individuals, with a particular focus on empowering communities in townships beyond the traditional Winelands. By nurturing talent and fostering inclusivity, we can cultivate a more vibrant and equitable future for the wine industry as a whole.

How do you think local wine producers could be more sustainable in their practices?

I am not a wine farmer, however, I see the need for local wine producers and estates to adopt various sustainable and ethical practices to align with the growing trend towards more natural techniques, organic and biodynamic farming, as well as incorporating water management. Soil and vineyard health is paramount and, of course, especially after the recent heavy rains, erosion control is imperative. With the amazing Fynbos the Western Cape has, there is no excuse not to plant for biodiversity and create habitats beneficial to insects and animals by planting native vegetation around vineyards.

It goes without saying that ethical and fair labour practices should be paramount on wine farms. Transparency in community and consumer engagement is important.

What excites you about the new generation of winemakers?

A new generation of bold and ambitious individuals has emerged in the wine industry. They exude youthfulness, fearlessness and confidence, as they challenge the traditional norms of winemaking. With fresh perspectives and innovative ideas, they are revolutionising the landscape by introducing unique wine styles that break away from convention.

The future of winemaking is unmistakably veering towards a departure from the old guard, embracing a dynamic shift towards the new and the innovative. Embracing change and creativity, they are paving the way for a vibrant and exciting era in the world of wine.

What advice would you give to aspiring wine entrepreneurs?

My advice would be, before embarking on a career in the wine industry it is crucial to conduct thorough research and introspection. Consider what aspects of the industry resonate with you and pinpoint where you envision yourself within the value chain. Armed with this clarity, your journey can begin with purpose and direction. Patience is a virtue essential in navigating the complexities of the wine world; without it, frustration may overshadow your passion.

Above all, maintain unwavering self-belief and seek out a supportive network of individuals who share in your vision. By fostering self-confidence and surrounding yourself with like-minded allies, you can pave the way for success in this dynamic and rewarding field.

*Experience a six-course menu at Dialogues Through Food: The Wine Shaq with Nomhle Zondani on Sat, 3 Aug from 19h00–22h00 at Maker’s Landing, Cape Town. Tickets are R 850 per person. Book online at Quicket. You do not want to miss this Food Indaba event!

foodindaba.org | The Wine Shaq