Exploring the Making of Chenin Blanc at Kleine Zalze

Words: Julie Velosa

Standing atop a koppie, with seemingly hard and unforgiving soil underfoot, we are privvy to an expansive vista overlooking the rolling hills of Stellenbosch to the left and the beaches of Strand to the right. It is here that Kleine Zalze’s Cellarmaster, RJ Botha, tells us the story of the historic bush vines surrounding us, which are used to produce some of the estate’s most revered Chenin Blanc wines.

Historic Bush Vines

RJ mentions in passing that up here in these vineyards he feels a ‘calm peacefulness’, which he believes is reflected in the grapes that grow there. At first, it’s almost hard to believe, as these heritage vineyards (which have to have been planted for more than 35 years), have a scraggly, gnarled appearance and look like they have to really fight to survive up here.

However, anyone who knows bush vines will know that therein lies their charm. Not known for being the highest yielding vines but rather for the quality of the grapes – these knotted-looking vine’s roots run deep. Not many others could grow in this positioning and within this tough, granite-y soil. Spending time walking through the quiet of the dormant vineyards one can start to appreciate that tranquillity RJ speaks of.

Kleine_Zalze-soil-RJ-Botha

Looking at the soil’s limey, stony texture you can tell that the vines have to be hardy to make it but this is exactly what lends the resulting wines such nuance. The gnarled appearance belies a vine that is known for producing smooth, character-filled wines, bursting with stories to tell.

Chenin Blanc in South Africa

Chenin Blanc has been woven into South African winemaking history from inception. Chenin Blanc vineyards were planted in local terroir in 1655, making it one of the first grape varieties to ever take root here.

In the early days, Chenin was popular because of its use in making brandy and fortified wines; growers also favoured its naturally hardy nature and ability to grow where other vines couldn’t.

Chenin Blanc vineyards were planted in local terroir in 1655, making it one of the first grape varieties to ever take root here.

There are wine estates that recognise and still champion this today, one such being Kleine Zalze, where the historic bush vines we are standing amongst are carefully cultivated to produce some of the best Chenin Blanc in the country, and in fact the world. These blocks, which are certified as historic by the Old Vine Project, have been planted for more than 35 years and there is a conscious effort to preserve them and their history.

Higher yielding and less temperamental vines could replace them but the point of the OVP is to ensure that this history is not lost. Value is placed on the age of the vines and the careful tending over the years. This can be a tall order when maximum yield is the logical business route. Winemaking definitely isn’t all logic though, it’s very much about timing, trusting intuition and listening to the vineyards. In an era of popular antipathy towards ageing, it’s quite refreshing that these older vines are seen as precious and worth preserving.

Interestingly, 2074,49 ha of vines under registration of the OVP are Chenin Blanc, with the next highest being Sauvignon Blanc at just 429,39 ha, which just shows the importance of this grape in South Africa.

Higher yielding and less temperamental vines could replace them but the point of the OVP is to ensure that this history is not lost.

Chenin Blanc at Kleine Zalze

At Kleine Zalze, Chenin Blanc features in each of the ranges, from the everyday easy-drinking Cellar Selection to the Vineyard Selection and the speciality Family Reserve.

From our chats in the vineyard, it became apparent that the Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc is closest to Cellarmaster RJ’s heart. The grapes for this wine feature characteristics of the decomposed granite soil – with notes of melon, peach, guava and a hint of minerality. It has been gently oaked and the palate offers a vibrant expression of the terroir.

If you can hold on, this wine will mature beautifully if cellared and enjoyed in the next 10 years. Patience is a virtue that all winemakers (and drinkers) must surely possess!

Kleine Zalze’s Family Reserve Chenin Blanc is also made from grapes selected from historic bush vines, however here grapes are selected from two blocks, handpicked and pressed to blend this wine, giving it different nuances from each parcel.

Again, if you can press pause, this wine will deliver something truly special if left on the wine rack for up to 15 years. It will also be an immensely enjoyable bottle if poured now.

Chenin Blanc at Kleine Zalze

While standing up on the Stellenbosch koppie mid-winter, amid vines that are taking their seasonal rest, it’s almost hard to picture them swathed in ripe fruit.  But actually, most of the work has happened in that decomposed granite-rich soil, adding complexity during the growing process. The grapes also benefit from sea breezes from the False Bay coastline that cool the vineyards during the notoriously scorching summers of Stellenbosch.

Most of the work has happened in that decomposed granite-rich soil, adding complexity during the growing process.

Egg-ceptional Methods

The Kleine Zalze team are creating wine in a variety of different methods but one of the most interesting is in the form of concrete ovid-shaped egg tanks, aptly named egg yolk and egg white (owing to a Co2-induced bubbling out of one of them that left it with a yellow tinge).

A combination of the work of active yeast, along with the smooth inside and shape of these unique tanks (which are not a new concept by the way, but rather a revert to a style of tank from around 8000 years ago) promotes a natural current within the juice contained inside. This means the lees is in more of a constant free-flow, which has an impact on the flavour. The porous raw cement also allows for aeration, which also impacts the wine… all carefully controlled by the winemaker, of course.

Why Chenin?

We asked RJ what he loves about Chenin Blanc and his answer was clear – versatility. From time spent in the vineyards tasting the grapes directly off the vine, to picking just the right moment to harvest, to the work in the cellar, and of course, in the glass – Chenin has so much to offer.

Food Pairing Suggestions

We’ve paired three of Kleine Zalze’s wines with three dishes from the on-site restaurant, Terroir, with chef Nic van Wyk at the helm. Each is designed to pair with notes in the wine.

Dish 1:

Poached fish, tenderstem broccoli, black pepper & Parmesan cream sauce and crispy potato skins.
Paired with Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2021.

Dish 2:

Seared tuna loin, wasabi aioli, sweet & sour soy dressing and toasted sesame seeds.
Paired with Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Chenin Blanc 2021.

Dish 3:

Miso braised onions, crispy potato cubes, baby spinach and lemon cream.
Paired with Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Chenin Blanc.

To sample Kleine Zalze’s Chenin Blancs, and to enjoy with delicious homestyle food, visit the estate in Stellenbosch.

Strand Road (R44), Stellenbosch Tel: +27 (21) 880 0717

Mon-Sat: 09h00-18h00 | Sun & Public Holidays: 11h00-18h00 | Last Tastings Commence at 17h30

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