From Persia to Bo-Kaap – The Layered History of Biryani
Biryani is one of those dishes that is a global sensation, and for good reason. It’s a symphony of flavours, textures and aromas, all layered together in a way that tells a story of cultural influence, culinary evolution, and the sheer brilliance of one of the hardest-working grains, rice. To understand the layered history and rich origins of biryani, we have to travel back in time to ancient Persia, where the roots of this iconic dish began to take hold.
The story of biryani starts with the Persian word ‘birinj,’ meaning rice or ‘birian,’ which translates to ‘fried before cooking’ referring to the process of frying the rice in ghee…
From Persia With Love
While it is widely considered an Indian dish, the origins of biryani can be traced to ancient Persia – now recognised as ‘Iran’ – where rice is a diet staple and forms the basis of popular dishes such as pilaf and tahdig. The story of biryani starts with the Persian word ‘birinj,’ meaning rice or ‘birian,’ which translates to ‘fried before cooking’ referring to the process of frying the rice in ghee before other ingredients are added. The word ‘berya’ meaning ‘roast’ or ‘fry,’ has also been linked to biryani’s origins.
Persian cuisine was known for its aromatic rice dishes, often cooked with meat and a few spices, and it’s here that the foundation of biryani was laid. These early versions were quite different from what we know today – simpler and less complex, but they introduced the concept of layering rice with meat, which is central to biryani. As Persian influence spread across the Middle East and into the Indian subcontinent through trade, conquest and migration, so did their culinary traditions.
The Origins of Biryani
When the Mughals arrived in India in the early 16th century, they brought with them Persian culture, art and cuisine. It was under the Mughals that biryani truly began to take shape. The Mughal emperors were known for their lavish feasts and their love for richly spiced, aromatic foods. In the imperial kitchens, the Persian rice dish was transformed, infused with vibrant spices and flavours of India. Saffron, a luxury spice, became a signature ingredient, giving the dish its golden hue and fragrant aroma. Indian cooks began to add layers of marinated meat, ghee, and a complex blend of spices, creating a dish that was a feast for the eyes and the palate.
As the Mughal Empire spread across India, so did biryani, and each region began to adapt the dish to its own tastes and local ingredients. In Hyderabad, the Nizams, who were great patrons of the arts and cuisine, developed their own version of biryani, known for its fiery spices and the use of basmati rice. The Lucknowi or Awadhi biryani, on the other hand, is known for its subtlety, with meat that’s cooked separately and then layered with rice in a method known as ‘dum pukht,’ where the dish is slow-cooked in a sealed pot. In Kerala, biryani took on a coastal flavour, with the addition of seafood and coconut milk, while in Kolkata, the dish became less spicy, with potatoes, boiled eggs and mutton or chicken typically added to the mix.
The journey of biryani didn’t stop in India. During the 19th century, under British rule, Indian labourers were taken to various parts of the world, including Southeast Asia, the Caribbean and Africa, and with them, they carried their culinary traditions.
The Biryani World Tour
In South Africa, which has a large Indian community, biryani is a beloved dish, particularly among the Cape Malay community, where the dish is often referred to as ‘breyani.’ South African breyani is known for its unique blend of spices and many variations; the beloved dish is often served at special occasions, religious holidays like Eid and family gatherings. Mutton, lamb, chicken, fish, frikkadel (meatball), mince and mixed vegetable, and tuna breyani are some locally adapted variations created since the rice dish was introduced to South Africa.
Similar to Kolkata-style biryani, the meat is usually marinated in cultured yoghurt or buttermilk and aromatic spices such as ginger, garlic, cardamom, breyani masala, turmeric (borrie), whole cloves, and pimentos (allspice), saffron, and grated tomato are added before it is cooked and layered with the parboiled basmati rice, brown lentils and crispy onions and boiled eggs. The addition of turmeric and saffron gives it a vibrant yellow colour. Served alongside tomato and onion sambal (salad) or cucumber raita and topped with fresh coriander (dhania), this dish is as iconic as it is delicious.
In South Africa, which has a large Indian community, biryani is a beloved dish, particularly among the Cape Malay community, where the dish is often referred to as ‘breyani.’
In Southeast Asia, biryani found a new home as well. In Malaysia and Singapore, biryani is often cooked with local spices and served with a variety of side dishes, reflecting the multicultural influences of the region. Even in the Middle East, where the dish originated, biryani has been reintroduced with new flavours, becoming a staple in the Gulf countries, where it is enjoyed by both locals and expatriates alike.
Today, biryani is a global dish, loved in every corner of the world. From the streets of Karachi to Bo-Kaap, biryani has become synonymous with celebration and comfort.
Craving biryani? Try this recipe for Easy Chicken Biryani. Want more? Learn about the history of bobotie.
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