This harvest season, there are more ways to experience the flavours of the grape harvest at La Motte than its famous mosbolletjies – although many of them still begin with must (the mos in mosbolletjies). But what exactly is must?
What is Grape Must?
Must is fermenting grape juice and one of the most fascinating products of the wine grape harvest. Rich in history and flavour, it has long been a versatile seasonal ingredient in kitchens around the world – including modern ones. Used in cooking since ancient times, must likely arrived in South Africa with the French Huguenots. While it is best known locally as an ingredient in must jam and mosbolletjies, it also features in a variety of savoury and meat dishes.
Mosbolletjie Bread
In wine-producing regions such as Germany and France, must was probably first used as an ingredient in breads and rusks. One of the earliest recorded references to bread baked with must dates back to the reign of King Edward I (1272–1307). In South Africa, mosbolletjies are often enjoyed fresh with butter or dried as rusks. Traditionally, they were served fresh with black coffee early in the morning – a ritual not unlike the French custom of pairing strong coffee with croissants.
In South Africa, mosbolletjies are often enjoyed fresh with butter or dried as rusks.
Must beyond the Mosbolletjie
Before modern preservation techniques, jam played an essential role in extending the sweetness of fruit. Must jam was likely one of the earliest forms of jam ever produced. Archaeological evidence even suggests its ancient origins – a jar of must jam was reportedly discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamun (ruled c.1332–1323 BC).
The much-loved brioche-style mosbolletjies, with their distinctive aniseed flavour, are available from the La Motte Bakery from Tuesday to Sunday. They can also be ordered for breakfast as Harvest Time French Toast (here’s a recipe to try at home). Mosbeskuit – rusks made from mosbolletjies – are also available and make an ideal companion to the first cup of coffee of the day.
Visit the La Motte Spens
The La Motte Spens offers a range of harvest-inspired treats. One of the highlights is moskonfyt (must syrup), a decadent drizzle over buttered toast. Must syrup or jam is made by simmering unfermented grape juice for hours until it reduces to a sweet syrup. It differs slightly from Vino Cotto, which is produced by reducing fermented grape juice.
Vino Cotto is dark, concentrated and deeply caramelised, and has become a popular ingredient in many kitchens. It pairs beautifully with meats and vegetables and works particularly well in sauces. It can be squeezed over creamy risotto, drizzled over cheeses, fruit or yoghurt, or used to top ice cream, waffles or French toast. It can even replace honey or syrup in certain recipes. La Motte also recommends trying it in their recipe for Duck in Sweet and Sour Sauce.
Another seasonal favourite to look out for is Sultana grape jam – the perfect partner to mature Cheddar on a cheese board – as well as raisin biscotti with a moskonfyt drizzle, an indulgent alternative for coffee-dipping.
