Chef Chris Erasmus, well known for his work in spearheading one of South Africa’s top 10 restaurants, Franschhoek-based Foliage, has brought his renowned expertise to the V&A Waterfront with Terrarium Restaurant at the Queen Victoria Hotel. Like the miniature ecosystems that inspire the restaurant’s name, Erasmus has created a self-contained culinary world where seasonal ingredients flourish in perfect balance and celebrate nature in all its wild complexity.
Erasmus describes it as “a space that is built around the concept of regeneration and the commitment to remain close to nature.” Given that the restaurant is located within a hotel, in the busy V&A Waterfront precinct, this is a challenging concept, yet one that Erasmus and the team manage to execute.
Dishes reflect the kitchen’s philosophy, which is focused on showcasing seasonal, hyperlocal ingredients and using techniques and flavours that push the boundaries of creativity. This is demonstrated through both the concepts of the dishes and their nature-inspired presentation as well.
The Fauna Menu: A Tasting Journey
The restaurant offers both Flora (vegetarian) and Fauna (meat-inclusive) eight-course tasting menus, alongside a newly launched à la carte option. We opted for the Fauna menu, which proved to be a masterclass in how seasonal ingredients are used to create a sophisticated dining experience. The menu is executed by head chef Anlou Erasmus and his team, whose technical precision allows Chris’ vision to shine through every meticulously crafted dish.
We also chose to do the accompanying wine pairing, which has been curated by Marlvin Gwese, Newmark Group’s Sommelier.
Fresh Flavours and Seasonal Highlights
Our evening began with a fresh West Coast oyster, elevated by pickle juice mignonette and hake roe “toast,” paired beautifully with Domaine des Dieux Claudia Brut. The progression continued with the Bone & Yeast course – fire-roasted beef bone marrow butter with Parmesan corn flakes and sourdough. The butter is cleverly shaped to look exactly like a marrow bone – a fun little theatrical twist that had us fooled until we cut into it.
The standout dish of the evening for me was undoubtedly the Tomato course. Made with fire-roasted heirloom tomatoes chopped into a tartare and accompanied by peach atchar, whey vinaigrette, and chilli oil; it was a revelation. The dish captured the essence of the smoky, fire-roasted flavour in every bite, paired perfectly with Delaire Graff’s Cabernet Franc Rosé. This was seasonal cooking at its finest – simple in concept but beautiful in execution.
The dish captured the essence of the smoky, fire-roasted flavour in every bite…
Innovative Seafood and Meat Courses
The Ceviche course showcased linefish with herbed tom yum, daikon radish, and bonito emulsion, demonstrating the kitchen’s deft hand with blending local and international flavours. But it was the Kingklip that truly surprised us. The fish was coated with an unexpected fermented blueberry glaze that was both innovative and delicious. Certainly a combination I’ve never had before, but one that was completely memorable. This kind of creative confidence is what sets Terrarium apart, pushing boundaries while respecting the integrity of each ingredient.
This kind of creative confidence is what sets Terrarium apart, pushing boundaries while respecting the integrity of each.
After a palate-cleansing seasonal sorbet, we moved to the Venison course. The roasted loin was accompanied by the most beautiful potato side, delicately finessed into a miniature garden with micro greenery, as well as black garlic and porcini, and a BBQ gastrique. This course was served with Waterford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, and was one of our favourite pairings.
Artful Plating and Service
What impressed me was how every element on these artfully plated dishes felt connected, much like the natural ecosystems that inspire the restaurant’s name. Even the service at Terrarium showcased this same interconnection, with a knowledgeable team working together to present dishes, talk through their details and simultaneously pour wine and discuss the pairings with us.
Terrarium Restaurant has created something special – a space that celebrates the bounty of the landscape while pushing the creative envelope. It’s a terrarium in the truest sense: a contained environment where creativity and nature exist in perfect harmony.
Find Terrarium Restaurant at the Queen Victoria Hotel
Moorings 5 Portswood Ridge, 5 Portswood Rd, Cape Town
Tel: 021 419 6677
Monday – Sunday: 12h00 – 22h00
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