If I asked you where Kuruman is, one-third of you would pretend to know, the other third wouldn’t have the slightest clue and on the off chance the last third does, they might claim to have a distant cousin from there. Those who aren’t familiar with this ‘dorpie’, only need to know two things – it’s the ‘Oasis of the Kalahari’ and is home to local chef and owner of Post & Pepper, Jess van Dyk, a ‘small town girl’ with big dreams.

Interview with Chef Jess van Dyk

Here, she discovered her love for cooking, which would eventually lead to opening her very own restaurant. The Northern-Cape-born chef moved to Cape Town where she attended Silwood School of Cookery, after which she would work at the world-renowned restaurant, La Colombe, then Protégé in Franschhoek as Head Chef. One yacht cheffing job, food photography gig and pandemic later, she decided to open Post & Pepper, her love letter to food and all things delicious.

The upscale ‘fun dining’ establishment was initially the old Stellenbosch post office which was revamped. After one year of service, we chat with chef Jess about her recent trip to Rome, doom-scrolling food posts on Instagram and what she cooks at home.

When did you know you wanted to be a chef?

I’m a small town girl from the Northern Cape (Kuruman) that grew up always eating and/or cooking food with family. Excelled in school but never found anything else I thought to make a living of, thus Silwood School of Cookery happened. It was the most prestigious chef school I knew of and I wanted to cook for a living and not do hotel management.

While at Silwood, I learned of the top establishments in our country and some were already recognised worldwide (La Colombe, The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Français) – which blew my mind – and I instantly wanted to go work and learn from these places.

You just returned from vacation. Where did you go and what were some highlights from your trip?

Yes, I just got back from my honeymoon. We decided on Italy, and thought to add a stop to Paris (City of Love, so had to). I just love the architecture, languages and culture, but I definitely travel mostly for the food – I will spend hours on Instagram and Google Maps trying to figure out where the best and most authentic places are to eat.

Highlights: Osteria de Fortunata in Rome – incredible vibe, pastas and hand-rolled thick noodles with the simplest but best sauces. We also spent two nights in Caiazzo to visit Pepe in Grani – Franco Pepe’s pizza is rated the best in the world, and let’s just say it did not disappoint – we went again on night 2.

Post & Pepper is now over one year old – congrats! What are the biggest learning curves you’ve experienced thus far?

Thank you! One moment it feels like we opened yesterday, the other moment it feels like absolute years have gone by – so much has happened since!

It has definitely been way more overwhelming than I ever imagined. The first big lesson is that your dream won’t be everyone’s dream. In my head, I had an idea of opening a restaurant and thought the staff and people would just share that dream; that they’ll believe in it, live it and breathe it the same way you do, and that is not always the case. It was probably my biggest wake-up call.

Secondly, it takes a village. People always say it takes a village to raise a child, and a business, especially a restaurant, is a huge baby with all the same responsibilities and growing pains. You can’t do it alone – you need help, and strong hands to help you achieve the picture in your head. Although there has been a lot of disappointment along the way, I had a lot of great people who helped me set it up and run it, believed in it and still help me today. Together, we create that Post & Pepper magic.

What was the lead-up to the moment you decided to open your own restaurant? Was it always the plan?

I don’t think you become a chef and work in the country’s best kitchens not wanting that, but for many years I was convinced I would always just be a Sous Chef – I was really good at it and was quite petrified of being creative really. I don’t think it was only one moment – the seed was planted and there were a few things that happened that ‘watered it’ and made it grow into more of a reality over six months or so…

I loved the responsibility and creative freedom I was allowed at Protégé, and it was also during the pandemic, where a lot of changes had to be implemented. During all these challenges and changes I realised I could probably do this at my own establishment someday, and then the Post & Pepper dream started.

A close friend of mine passed away during COVID, after just starting his dream job, and I remember the moment I heard the news… I realised just how short and precious life is, and next year isn’t always guaranteed, so I decided there and then I would resign and pursue this dream. I resigned not having an exact game plan, location or idea of the restaurant style – but slowly and piece by piece, everything came together to create Post & Pepper.

You dabbled in food styling, photography and videography – what inspired the pivot and what led you back into the kitchen?

I was actually freelance cheffing when I did a function with Source Food, it was soon after that the chef there left and they phoned offering me the Head Chef position. I think it was one of the best things I ever did. It was completely different from a fine dining kitchen. I learned a lot during my time there, about myself and the industry. The people I worked with have become lifelong friends, and believed in me and motivated me relentlessly.

Your menu draws inspiration from your upbringing; what’s your fondest childhood food memory?

I don’t think there is just one. My grandmother was a really good cook and, apparently, could cook for masses of people.

I am big on smells and flavours, and can pinpoint a smell to an exact memory. So flavours from my childhood play a big part in the way I cook today – textures, flavours, sauces, dishes – whether it’s my mom’s lasagna with loads of béchamel or my gran’s ‘roerbrood’, eggy potato salad, or a ‘basaar kerrie vetkoek’ (bazaar curry vetkoek). I love food that makes me remember things. It’s not intentional, but I definitely cook out things I’ve tasted, seen, heard of or experienced from memory.

How do you seek inspiration for new dishes?

I very rarely seek inspiration. If anything, I love looking at Instagram photos for a bit of inspo – I’m a visual person (‘n prentjie mens). It’s honest food that I would like to eat in that moment, just done in a ‘fancy’ way. I love big flavours – I can’t stand bland food and would rather go hungry than eat something I don’t enjoy. Saying that, I pick flavours that I know go together; I don’t dare with too many new or out-there combinations.

The menu features local South African dishes with a twist, as well as global cuisine. Why have you decided to present such an expansive offering?

I think it’s all food I would cook at home. My go-to’s at home are curries (whether Thai or Indian), some Asian dumplings or noodles or a fancy mac ‘n cheese, and it has been those for years. Whenever I eat it at home, I just think ANYONE would love to eat this, so I thought to make a ‘restaurant version’; it worked and people really loved it.

I knew I wanted a small menu of exciting dishes, hence, so many different flavours and cuisines. Flavour is key – that’s what it’s all about. Although, we’ve also had people say their palates got tired of all the flavours (lol). My bad, that’s just what comes naturally to me and what I like eating.

Post & Pepper is all about ‘fun dining’ –  as a chef familiar with the world of fine dining, why take that route?

My hobbies include looking at food on Instagram, cooking food at home and going out to eat – food is what I consider having fun. There is nothing I enjoy more than sitting around a table with friends or family, with a big spread of food and indulging together.

As I was working on dishes and the concept for Post & Pepper, I steered more and more towards creating shareable plates, where people have a bite of the same thing and can share in the moment of joy, so ‘fun dining’ came to mind.

I love cooking fine dining; it taught me the fundamentals of kitchen discipline, cooking food with depth of flavour, technique and finesse, but it wasn’t something that I’d like to eat every day. Opening a restaurant is a long-term plan, so I wanted a restaurant with food I would like to eat often.

How do the restaurant interiors reflect that concept?

It’s plush with beautiful furniture and a backdrop to match. I wanted a space that has a bit of old-school charm, a cosy feeling yet upmarket and just a tad fancy to make it feel special. We have lots of wooden elements and warm tones, but also fun elements like star-studded tiles, a wallpaper backdrop and ceilings, a beautiful funky bar, and cool mirrors and lights.

These days, more restaurants are focused on sustainability. What’s Post & Pepper’s take on this?

If I’m honest, I don’t go out of my way to be ‘sustainable’. There are so many gimmicky ways of trying to make things seem ‘sustainable’ and ‘ethical’ these days, from recycling to free-range products, etc. We cook with local ingredients from local suppliers, and try and minimise while utilising excess off-cuts and wastage as best we can. We create a fun and happy working environment, good and fair working hours and wages for staff – I believe it all starts ‘at home’. A happy team creates a happy environment that guests can feel on the floor and taste in the food – it’s not always that easy, but we do try.

How do you envision the restaurant evolving in the coming years? Do you have any future plans or exciting projects in mind?

I dream often and think of new ventures or ideas, but then reality hits with a new crisis and I realise just how out of context it is at this stage. There have been opportunities, but I am a firm believer that what will be, will be – at the right time and place. So nothing just yet…

You’ve worked at some of the best local restaurants. What advice would you give to aspiring chefs?

Graft, graft, graft. Arrive with enthusiasm, work quick, clean and efficient; steal with your eyes and ears. Be self-motivated to be excellent, to learn, to grow and to contribute.

What advice would you give your younger self?

Believe in yourself – be your own damn fangirl!

To make a reservation at Post & Pepper, call 021 203 5165 or book via Dineplan | Open: Tues-Sat, 12h00–14h30 (Lunch) & 18h00–20h30 (Dinner) | Location: The Oude Postkantoor, Cnr Bird and Plein Street, Stellenbosch

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