Not that long ago, when famous industry stalwart, Noma, declared that it was closing, various publications tried to gather momentum behind the idea that fine dining was dead in the water. Clickbait? Maybe. Some clutched their pearls in a panic and others were too afraid to disagree for the much-dreaded fear of being ‘cancelled’ for having an opinion. Fast forward a few months, and thankfully, we haven’t seen fine dining restaurants under the scrutiny. Controversy is the age-old conversation starter and if anything, it’s possibly propelled those in the industry wanting to prove the theory wrong. I recently dined at The Waterside, one of the esteemed restaurants in the La Colombe group, with this question in mind.
Fries or Foie Gras?
The concept of fine dining might not be for everybody and that’s ok, neither is coriander. It’s not going anywhere just yet though. However, it is under pressure due to factors such as economic instability, changing consumer demands and evolving trends, but what industry isn’t?
Restaurants have been serving a version of ‘haute cuisine’ for years and even though the landscape is changing, a place still remains for those showcasing culinary excellence (such as this), just as there will always be a place for a really great burger.
Dining at The Waterside
The essence of fine dining is meticulous attention to detail, exquisite flavour and exceptional service, and our experience at The Waterside genuinely delighted us with these at every turn. Not only were the dishes visually striking but layered with intricate thought and flavour. In some instances, making me pause and wonder how on earth you pack so much flavour into one element. Head Chef, Roxy Mudie, clearly has the knack.
To say the food was delicious, mouthwatering and all the other descriptive adjectives won’t really do it justice, and at this level, it darn well should be – that’s the whole point, isn’t it? This is the crème de la crème.
The food was amazing, yes, but it was also the consideration of how the meal was designed and progressed, leaving us sated but not rolling out the door. The service was impeccable, the wine pairings, considered, and the whisky sour cocktail was certifiably the best I’ve ever had – hands down. We arrived with high expectations, as you do when dining at an establishment like this, and we left with those expectations exceeded.
Do We Really Sound Like That?
The fine dining industry took some heat again with the release of the movie The Menu, which, if we’re being honest, caught us all off-guard and made food writers everywhere question ‘Do I really sound like that?’. If you haven’t seen it yet, I won’t spoil it for you, except to say that the movie delves into the complexities and dynamics of the fine dining scene, exploring things like ambition, creativity, and the pursuit of culinary perfection in a rather messy and unfortunate way. It shone a light (or cast a shadow?) over this relentless pursuit of perfection, the intense pressures and the high stakes involved in creating a culinary masterpiece.
Yes, it’s a damn tough industry but let’s be fair though and say that boundaries are pushed across the board in the name of excellence – it is that very pursuit that drives greatness.
The movie also poked at the way food writers and influencers can wax lyrical, and while I agree that some of it is completely cringeworthy, we also want to recognise and appreciate brilliance when we see it, or rather when we eat it.
What the movie also did, was highlight that finding the balance between striving for distinction and preserving your well-being is necessary, no matter what industry you’re in.
I Enjoy Beautiful Food, and I’m ok With That
Rather than list all the incredible things we ate at The Waterside, which honestly I could, they were numerous and exceptional, I want to rather say what a privilege it is to experience food in this way. A privilege I am well aware of. As someone who genuinely loves food, I appreciate how much work, time and incredible refinement goes into creating dishes like those on the menu at The Waterside, and similar establishments. In fact, I am in awe of it. These teams are operating at the highest level, showcasing incredible talent and ingenuity, and I applaud it.
What lunch at The Waterside also cemented, is that we have truly gifted people in the culinary industry in this country – those that have been around a while and continue to open restaurants that elevate the food scene and nurture incredible talent, as well as those young dynamos that are creating exceptional food under that tutelage, and in their own capacity.
Change Drives Evolution
The closure of a renowned institution like Noma is a reminder that the restaurant industry is dynamic and constantly evolving, and it should be. If it isn’t, that is when creativity dies. In fact, the Noma team isn’t closing its doors entirely but rather remodelling the business into research and product development. Their legacy continues, just in a different way, and that’s not a bad thing.
Whether it’s an intimate chef’s table, a fusion of diverse cuisines, or a celebration of local and sustainable ingredients, fine dining continues to evolve and will continue to captivate diners who seek extraordinary culinary encounters.
The Waterside upholds the La Colombe group’s reputation for delivering exceptional cuisine and impeccable service. My experience of the Chef’s Menu left a lasting impression and further affirmed my admiration for food that I know I simply could never conceive of nor make myself, and the creative talents that can and do.
The Waterside Winter Special
Experience The Waterside for yourself with this amazing Winter Special deal – R695 – for a 6-course menu. Monday to Sunday Lunch only.
T: +27 21 879 6329 | Pierhead Building, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town
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