When you think ‘tavern’, the likes of shanty establishments might come to mind, but Ouzeri couldn’t be more different. After studying at Silwood and working at some of the country’s best fine dining restaurants like La Colombe, chef-owner, Nicolas Charalambous, decided that he wanted to recreate the food he knows and loves. What started as a series of pop-up experiences led to Ouzeri opening doors last year, and the buzz hasn’t died down since.

Inspired by Nic’s Greek-Cypriot heritage, the taverna incorporates minimal design elements featuring wall niches and ivory/blue accents. The interiors effortlessly capture Mediterranean architectural charm, while the cuisine expands on traditional and regional specialities with a contemporary twist. Staying true to its name, patrons can expect ouzo (liqueur), mezedes (finger foods) and small plates, offering a unique taste of Greek and Cypriot flavours beyond stereotypical fare. We visited the popular restaurant to catch up with Charalambous about his recent island-hopping adventures through Greece and Cyprus, and stayed for the beef tartare. Join the chat…

You were raised by your grandparents. Did you spend loads of time in the kitchen with your gran, and what did you make?

I was basically raised by them. I spent a lot of time in their house and my gran cooked a lot of food – all day, every day – so I spent a lot of time with her in the kitchen and out in the garden. Something I have really fond memories of is making her olive bread, Eliopita, which is on our menu – has been from day one. I’ve obviously done it a little bit differently, but the flavour and the taste is very similar to hers.

Has she tried it and do you think she would approve of it?

No, she hasn’t. Maybe when I visit next year I’ll make it for her, but she would approve.

Ouzeri has become a favourite for many after just one year of service; what do you attribute that success to?

I mean, I hope it’s down to how authentic we are and just trying to do what we love to do and cook the food that I like to cook. I think people appreciate that aspect of it. I would hope that’s what it is, and I believe that’s what it is.

 What sets Ouzeri apart from other local Greek restaurants?

We try and showcase non-stereotypical Greek dishes. I go through a lot of effort to research the history behind Greek food and Cypriot food that people don’t necessarily know in South Africa. We try to show them in a way that is traditional but also contemporary, so that people can understand them a little bit better. I always try and stay very true to what was done before when it comes to replicating traditional dishes, especially the ones that I grew up with – I don’t want to change those. The different techniques and making them ‘restaurant appropriate’ and approachable to non-Greek people is a big part of that.

What are some misconceptions about Greek/Cypriot food?

Within South Africa, I think the Greek food that people have been shown is sort of one-dimensional. Its the usual suspects – souvlaki, tzatziki and kleftiko – and there’s so much more to it. A lot differs regionally, from the islands to the mainland, and the different sides of Greek and Cypriot food from the North to the South.

 Having worked in fine dining kitchens, why have you decided to take more of a casual approach to the food?

Working in fine dining restaurants was a really good experience. You learn a lot about people, techniques and how to best work in the kitchen, but I just wanted the experience of it all. I always wanted to get into this style of food and eating, and service.

What has been the most challenging aspect since opening?

Easy one – loadshedding. I think everyone has felt the impacts of it, but when we opened, that’s when it escalated and got worse and more consistent. Dealing with that, both from a customer and staff side, while trying to keep everyone motivated was quite difficult. Obviously, the financials behind it as well; we put in an inverter and there’ve been some issues with that, so that’s probably been one of the biggest difficulties.

What would you say could change in the food industry?

Loaded question! Not much could change really, especially in South Africa, we’re on such a great path with where we’re going with it. From my perspective, I think there is a need for more authenticity with people doing things that are appropriate to themselves, rather than trying to replicate other cultures. That’s what I’m doing here, and I would like to think that’s why we’ve had the success that we’ve had.

Can you tell us about the concept behind the menu?

It’s mostly led by seasonality, that’s just how food is within Greece. It’s not like a trend thing, that’s just how we eat. Also, based on our creativity and when we want to change the menu. A lot of it involves trying to showcase different styles of Greek food and highlighting the regional differences between all the spaces within Greece and Cyprus. Just showing all of the flavour profiles you can find there.

The restaurant interiors are stunning – what inspired it?

Thank you, it was very much a continuation of the process of creating the food and menu. We wanted to bring in different influences and styles from different regions, while keeping it traditional yet contemporary and nostalgic yet sophisticated. We worked with Yaniv Chen from Master Studios, and that’s exactly his sort of style, so it all worked out really well.

Many Mediterranean restaurants use imported ingredients. Why do you focus on local produce?

With Greek food, produce is the most important thing. There are some imported products that we use, but it’s mainly the dry stuff like the orzo rice that we use for the yiouvetsi and the fava beans that we make our fava with. Stuff like that comes from Greece – the soil that they grow in there makes them sweeter and you get a completely different final product. But when it comes to replicating that sort of flavour in certain dishes, you can’t beat using fresh, local stuff. We get the best quality, and working with the farmers and producers is also part of the whole experience and building a community around it.

You recently travelled – where did you go and what was the highlight of your trip?

My wife, Clara, will kill me, but it was mainly to eat and to experience different cultures and cuisines from all the islands. That’s something we try and highlight at Ouzeri. We did four or five islands. We were in Corfu and Paxos, which are Ionian islands, so very different sort of food to what you’ll find on the Aegean side. We spent a few days there and in Athens, eating at some of the best restaurants and then, Serifos and Sifno.

What’s the best thing you ate?

Oh, geez, I actually don’t know to be honest. At a restaurant in Athens, we had something called ‘Gamopilafo’, which is Cretan Wedding Rice made with rice and goat meat. It’s sort of basic food, but it was so delicious – that was probably one of the best things.

We heard the menu is being revamped, what can everyone expect?

Yeah, so the menu is going to be changing coming out of winter and going into spring. But aside from that, I’ve obviously come back from travelling with so many ideas that we’ll be changing within the next month and then doing a nice big change for spring.

I’m working on it now, but we’re definitely going to try to get the Cretan Wedding Rice (Gamopilafo) on there and change up the fava because we’ve had many variations of that within Greece now. Maybe some pasta dishes from Corfu, which is what they’re really famous for. And maybe some freshly grilled fish as well…

Favourite dish on the current menu?

It’s difficult to say, I think probably the yiouvetsi or the beef tartare. Yiouvetsi is a nice, hearty winter dish. The tartare is something people love – it’s unique and done our way.

 What do you hope people will take home after eating at Ouzeri?

Just loving the food and having had really good service. Leaving with a bit of education as well, because that’s very important to me – coming out of it being like ‘Oh wow, I’ve never tasted or seen anything like that before’.

*To make a reservation at Ouzeri, WhatsApp 061 533 9071 or book via Dineplan | Lunch: Fri-Sat: 12h00–14h30 & Dinner: Tues-Sat: 18h00–21h30 | Location: 58 Wale St, Cape Town City Centre 

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