Winemakers spend half their careers waiting – for the perfect moment to harvest, the right conditions for fermentation and ageing to conclude before they can taste the fruits of their labour. A succession Morgan Steyn has not merely observed but lived, as he grew from intern to winemaker at De Grendel Wine Estate. Much of that success is owed to imbibing knowledge and trusting the terroir.
As a former Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé and Stellenbosch BSc Agriculture graduate, Steyn has made great strides throughout his burgeoning career. He believes, “Winemaking is a lifelong journey of learning and refining your craft,” a pledge he is devoted to, having worked at some of the country’s top estates, including Groot Constantia, Ernie Els Wines, Delaire Graff Estate and Domaine Lejeune in Burgundy, France. Now, he grafts alongside trusted mentor and cellar master Charles Hopkins at De Grendel Wine Estate, where they balance innovation with intuition. We talk with the talented winemaker about trusting the terroir, why Semillon deserves more recognition and what it takes to be a winemaker.
Every winemaker has a philosophy – what’s yours?
Keep it simple. My philosophy is to act as a translator for the terroir, with minimal intervention to let the vineyard’s character shine through.
Did you always want to be a winemaker?
Winemaking wasn’t initially on my radar, but I always knew I wanted a career connected to nature and creativity. Attending an agricultural school set me on the path to discovering winemaking, and from there, my passion grew.
You’ve worked at some renowned estates. What’s been unique about your experience at De Grendel?
De Grendel stands out because it’s a family-owned farm where the owner remains actively involved in the day-to-day operations. The terroir is unique, supporting both red and white wines with exceptional quality. And, of course, the breathtaking view of Table Mountain is something I never take for granted.
De Grendel is known for both cool-climate and Bordeaux-style wines. How do you balance tradition with innovation?
We strive to stay at the forefront of technology, while remaining [agriculturally] sustainable and respecting tradition. The key is finding harmony between modern innovation and the core values that make De Grendel wines distinctive.
During your internship in Burgundy, what stood out most about their wine culture and techniques?
Burgundy taught me both what to do and what not to do. What stood out most was their deep respect for the vineyards and the environment, as well as their patience in the winemaking process. One thing I’ve learnt is the importance of whole-bunch fermentation for Pinot Noir. It enhances elegance and fruit concentration, revealing the varietal’s true character.
What has been the most rewarding and challenging part of this harvesting season?
This year’s harvest started later than the previous one, but it brought beautiful surprises. The wines have maintained fresh, natural acidities, while the red wines have shown vibrant colour and well-structured tannins. Fortunately, we didn’t experience any challenges at De Grendel, and I’m excited to see how this vintage develops.
When you are not in the cellar, how do you unwind?
I enjoy spending time with my wife, Lua. We both love good food and wine, often experimenting with pairings at home. I also like staying active – running and going to the gym helps clear my mind.
You have made great strides in your career. Are there any mentors or experiences that have made a lasting impression on you?
I’ve had the privilege of learning from many people in the wine industry. The South African wine community is incredibly collaborative – you can call any winemaker, and they’ll share their knowledge. One of the most influential mentors in my career has been Charles Hopkins. His vast experience and dedication to the craft have been invaluable to my growth as a winemaker.
Words to live by?
Hard work and dedication always pay off.
Varietals you want to experiment with?
We are currently working on an exciting project involving smaller batches and new varietals. One I’m particularly passionate about is Semillon. It’s often underestimated and seen as just a blending component, but I believe it has incredible potential. With its refined fruit notes, subtle greenness and remarkable structure, Semillon has a lot to offer and just gets better with age.
Your go-to food and wine pairing?
Cabernet Sauvignon with a perfectly cooked Picanha steak is a classic. I also love the combination of an oaked Chardonnay with butter chicken.
Any advice for young winemakers?
Stay curious and learn as much as you can! Find a mentor you admire and absorb their knowledge. Winemaking is a lifelong journey of learning and refining your craft, so embrace every opportunity [there is] to grow.
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